By: Julianne Mason, Restoration Program Coordinator, Forest Preserve District of Will County
Stewards are busy people. Fire work, weed work, seed harvesting, brush thinning. How can you also find time to assess how your restorations are coming along?
Watch our video and see how a rapid assessment can be done.
The video link is https://www.nachusagrasslands.org/monitoring.html
At the same link are the two templates we mention.
By Bill Kleiman, Nachusa Grasslands, TNC
In Nebraska, Chris Helzer of TNC, does no or little work against sweet clover. Perhaps Nebraska is dry enough that yellow and white sweet clover (Melilotus officinalis and M alba) are there but not overwhelming. In rain soaked Illinois we find prairie plantings can look like we are raising sweetclover hay.
We sometimes spot spray sweetclover with a pack. In ruderal areas we sometimes use a tractor sprayer.
We like weed spading sweet clover as the spade is light weight, simple, and effective. We loosen the soil next to the clover and pluck it out, rather than tug until our backs hurt. I have written about these weed spades previously on this blog.
You can see we can grow some huge sweet clover plants.
Sweet clover is a biennial so if you mow it very short, on year two, when it is in full flower the plants typically do not re-sprout. On some rocky soils it is hard to mow the yellow clover short enough to not have it re-sprout.
We use rotary mowers. The batwing mower tends to mow short enough to pick up and cut the plants knocked down by the tractor tires.
The advantage of a sickle mower is that the cutter is off to the side. Below, Austin Webb of Byron Forest Preserve is showing me their mower used for sweetclover patches. They are relatively simple, quiet as the tractor can be run at low throttle, and they are nimble to maneuver. After two seasons with this mower they are pleased.
Below, the flail mower is another way to mow weeds and lanes. This photo is from a manufacturer’s website. Flail mowers rotate the blade not horizontal to the ground but in the other dimension, like a brush mower head rotates, or a roto-tiller spins.
Below is a photo submitted by Joe Blastick of South Dakota TNC. They call this one Mowasaurus. This is a silage chopper. It is designed to cut a crop like hay with its flail mower components, then auger to its built in chopper, and then its blower sends the product into a wagon trailing behind. Here they use it to mow a fire break and then blow the product into the wind off the fire break.
I tried one of these in our Illinois 5 foot high prairie and it kept jamming the chopper with all that prairie. You want the wind to be modest or away from you. It does not like lots of rocks.
by Bill Kleiman, Nachusa Grasslands, TNC
I often carry in my truck a spray bottle of herbicide that is 20% garlon 4 in mineral oil, a basal bark herbicide. I use this on various brush I see during the summer. Last year, while cruising for weeds, I found a few dozen herbaceous invasive plants, birdsfoot trefoil (Lotus corniculatus). Ordinarily I would spray them with a water based foliar herbicide, perhaps Garlon 3A or Crossbow. But I did not have those with me. I just had the basal bark mix.
I know if I sprayed the foliage of the plant with the basal bark mix it would kill it. But that would be an expensive treatment. But, what if I just sprayed a small spot, an inch or two wide, at the base of these big sprawling plants? Would that kill them or just brown them out and leave the root alive? How would I know if the plant roots died?
I came up with a simple experiment.
Below is my sprayer with basal bark mix and a Lotus plant flagged with blue tape.
Below is a big Lotus plant which I have just sprayed a small circle in the middle of the plant where the stems go to earth. A complass plant leaf is at bottom.
Below is another Lotus a few days after spraying basal bark in the center. In this specimen I gathered the stems up to find that center and then applied a small amount of basal bark mix close to the earth. You can see the plant wilted. Is it dead? Note the aluminum tag I applied to a twisted end of wire that that is about 15 inches high. How will I know I killed the root? When I return a year later, find this tag, and find no living Lotus there. The tag is prairie fire proof.
Below is one dead Lotus the next summer. Therefore, the basal bark mix killed the root.
I tagged about 40 Lotus plants this way but since Covid cancelled our fire season I could only find 10 marked plants in all that un-burned foliage. But ten out of ten Lotus, birdsfoot trefoil, were dead.
Lessons learned:
These casual small scale experiments are fun to do. They give me comfort knowing my techniques are working. They are not large scale enough to publish in a journal, but these experiments help me make a pitch to University researchers to do similar studies at scale with a control.
I should have used taller wires so I could find them all. I only found one in four tags.
Follow up questions I have:
It is subtle, but I think I see a few inches of sparse vegetation around where the Lotus was. Is that the Garlon 4 vaporizing and killing plants nearby? Or had the competition of the large Lotus plants thinned nearby plants? If I had burned the site I could have had a clearer view of the situation.
What if I repeated that experiment using concentrated glyphosate herbicide on just a center spot?
Other questions on foliar spraying come to mind:
What if I sprayed with water based broadleaf herbicide, but only sprayed the middle half of the plant? Is that enough to kill it? What about a quarter of the plant?
What if set up a series of tests of various broadleaf herbicides to see which had the best control of Lotus, but also the least off target damage?
Kudos to Mary Vieregg. The prairie planting where I did this experiment was created in 2008 by volunteer steward, Mary Vieregg. She and husband Jim picked and planted all the seed, and weeded if for years after.
The Vieregg planting at Clear Creek Knolls of Nachusa Grasslands.
By Bill Kleiman, Nachusa Grasslands Project Director, TNC
The photo below shows a nail pouch that clips to my belt. Those are king devil flower heads in there. I pluck the heads and spray the basal rosettes. This is easy and I call it fun.
Year round I have a quart sprayer of some herbicide in my vehicle sitting in a five gallon pail. In winter it is a basal bark herbicide solution since it won’t freeze. In summer I also carry a bottle of water based broadleaf herbicide. Lately it has been a solution of 2% Garlon 3A with a bit of blue dye. It is very pleasant to hop out of the truck, grab a squirt bottle, and treat an autumn olive or a birdsfoot trefoil, without having to put my backpack on.
Below is a jug of broadleaf herbicide. It is marked RTU which stands for Ready To Use, meaning it is not concentrate but diluted, with a surfactant and colorant added. I carry about a gallon in the jug as it is easier to fill the bottles that way. I have a funnel with me. Or you can fill the squirt bottles from your backpack sprayer.
Below are five squirt bottle brands. Some of these bottles cost very little and you get five minutes of frustrating air spray or sometimes a few months of good herbicide spray from the same cheap bottle.
My favorite sprayer of late is this one which came as a Chlorox cleaning solution. I peeled off the label. On the other side I used a label maker to mark it as “Broadleaf herbicide”. This model will spray every drop as that pickup tube comes from the very bottom front, so you don’t pump air when the bottle is tilted down. They spray a moderate cone of mist. So far these are awesome.
The nozzle has that short red tube. It has a quarter turn connect. I don’t see these for sale on line. You can buy some more cleaning solution!
Below you are looking down at one big invasive birdsfoot trefoil with the yellow flowers. Carrying a hand sprayer means it is easy to bend down and gather up that sprawling plant as I did here and then squirt the middle of the “braid” with a dose. The prairie dock should survive.
Below is a repurposed class A foam container to hold water for a simple hand washing station. I drilled a hole in the edge. Just lay it over and it trickles out water. Sometimes I carry soap but just the water is very nice to have around. Don’t fill it all the way, a gallon or two last a few days.
Below is a plastic hinged box to hold items useful in weed work. Disposable rubber gloves, blue tree marking paint, sun screen, ear plugs, paper towels, safety glasses, a little bottle of eye saline, MSDS sheets.
Of course a backpack is a common item to carry in my truck. This is a newer model for us. I like its folding handle. The clip seems to hold the nozzle wand. The wand is metal. It has a padded shoulder straps and back pad. The fill lid is deep and wide which means less splashing on fill up. Well made.
I encourage our crew to just put in a 1.5 gallons of mix to keep the weight low. This pack full would feel like you were backpacking the AT. Hopefully we walk more than we spray. Carry a 2 gallon jug of RTU mix in the truck.
Last tip:
If you visit an invasive weed occurrence once a year to treat it the weed will likely increase.
If you visit the occurrence twice you will break even and maybe gain.
If you visit three or more times you likely make great progress.
Weed work is a marathon.
Carry the tools you need and be happy.
Because one project is spraying invasive birdsfoot trefoil does that mean I should too?
How to approach this question for birdsfoot trefoil, or any invasive plant.
First gather information about an assumed invasive plant. Look up websites, talk to managers you know, consult people with a history on the site. For birdsfoot trefoil, Lotus corniculatus, you will likely find experts/botanists/natural areas managers consider it to be invasive. They may not know what to do about it. It has kept me humble.
But should you manage against it at your particular site?
First, study a map of your site that shows where any remnant habitats are located, where the habitat restorations are. Note the good quality from the poor quality sections.
Then map the occurrences of the invasive plant across your site. Below is a 2006 map from Nachusa.
Does the plant occur everywhere? Does it occur on just the very poor restorations, or the old pasture with no native plants? Or is it on the best part of the remnant habitats, or just on the degraded edges of the remnant?
Consider what harm you might do by working against the weed. A quality remnant already saturated with an invasive plant may be a case of leaving the weed alone.
On our Big Jump unit we have birdsfoot trefoil that is very thick and all across the remnant prairie. Decades back trefoil seed was broadcast over that prairie to make a better pasture. To try to spray out the trefoil would leave little else in the way of forbs. Trefoil produces lots of seed that stays in the soil a long time. Trefoil requires decades of annual visits to spray plants. Our resources are limited. So for this unit we want to contain the spread, leave the trefoil on the remnant, and instead spray trefoil in the adjacent ruderal areas. We also spray any trefoil that occurs on our fire breaks or stewardship lanes so we don’t move the seed around on our equipment.
Below: The trefoil in the adjacent fallow field that had about four species of plants: brome grass, timothy, weedy goldenrod, and lots of the yellow trefoil. We used 1% Milestone herbicide as it works on the germinating seeds too. This was not hard to do. We could do this every few years.
On another large unit we have owned a long time we have been carefully backpack spot spraying trefoil from a remnant, and we have been spot spraying in restorations that are adjacent. This effort has been a 27 year long practice with multiple visits every year. A labor of love.
We get so busy doing conservation that we often don’t report out on the work we accomplish. Or we create a dry report and wonder if anyone reads it. I was recently involved with a brush mowing project where we cleared a lot of habitat. I wanted to try to explain why we mowing a lot of brush, planting seed, and using prescribed fire. I decided to use Adobe Spark to produce a report on the work. The link is here: https://spark.adobe.com/page/tJeXFdSRLvy2s/
Presentation can be made with other software such as ArcGIS StoryMaps or Power Point. They all charge a fee.
A lot of the work we do in grassland restoration takes time to explain. Visual aids help us bridge a gap.
By Bill Kleiman, Nachusa Grasslands, The Nature Conservancy
If you manage grasslands you likely also do prescribed fire. I have been posting fire and fire equipment articles with the GRN because I also provide content for the Illinois Prescribed Fire Council website….where you can find the extended version of this post and other fire equipment reviews.
https://www.illinoisprescribedfirecouncil.org/equipment-resources.html
A water tender is used to fill up the other pumper units being used on prescribed fires. Water tenders need to hold and pump a lot of water. They also are the place you put all those tools and supplies you don’t need in every vehicle.
We purchased an Enduraplas brand 300 gallon skid unit. This post summarizes how we set up our tender truck using this new unit.
Bolting the skid to the truck bed:
Our truck is a stainless steel dump truck. It has no tie down points for using straps to hold the skid tank in place. I am reluctant to use straps anyway as they can be precarious, allowing the tank to slide about the bed and frequently being inadequate of a hold down.
Instead, we looked for a way to drill through the stainless bed and bolt the skid frame down. We ended up concluding that the dump truck bed had frame members in the way of a simple straight bolt through the tender skid frame. We were going to need metal fabrication. We took the truck and tender skid to Bellini Welding in Dixon Illinois. Their staff Tim McBride spent a day mounting the skid to the truck. Below photo is the metal L channel that was added with photo below that finished mount.
Brian Bellini – who can fabricate anything, and with flair.
Tim McBride
Below are the baffle balls we purchased and dropped inside the tank. They took all the slosh out of the tank when the truck moves.
Below is a type of tail gate we fashioned to keep stuff from falling out.
This tender skid unit uses a 5hp motor turning a centrifugal pump that can theoretically pump 120 gallons per minute. I tested the flow rate that comes out of the 100 feet of ¾’ hose at a mere 13 gpm. This flow rate is too low for a tender.
Below shows the solution as a plumbed bypass of the hose reel and a wide hose. The output is now a massive 73 gallons per minute. The line fits in the pallet fork frame for storage. The hose reel line still works too.
Thank you to volunteer maintenance tech Paul Mellen for working with me to get this tender set up.
Again, more details on tender here: https://www.illinoisprescribedfirecouncil.org/equipment-resources.html
By Eric Hoff and Haley Bloomquist, The Nature Conservancy, Brown Ranch, North Dakota.
Leafy spurge is native to Eurasia and thought to have been brought to the upper Midwest in the late 1800’s. A very aggressive plant, Leafy Spurge spreads through rhizomes as well as seeds. Exploding seed pods have been shown to spread seed up to 20 feet from the parent plant! Seeds are also viable in the soil for as long as 10 years.
Here at Brown Ranch in North Dakota, Leafy Spurge is found from the top of our sandhills right down to the very edge of the wetlands/ sedge meadow. It does not like to be submerged in water or heavily saturated soils but can withstand a short duration of inundation.
Leafy spurge can flower in the spring and fall. The control of Leafy Spurge is very difficult because of its extensive root system, which can be up to 26ft in depth, as well as the longevity of the seeds. There are many integrated pest management tools to control Leafy Spurge which include chemical, mechanical, and biological methods. The most common and effective herbicides to combat Leafy Spurge include Tordon, Plateau, 2,4-D, and Facet. At Brown Ranch we have found Plateau and Facet are the most effective at controlling Leafy Spurge. Plateau is hard on forbs and caution must be used in areas where the water table is or can be at or near the soil surface. Facet is not as hard on forbs, is equally or more effective, but costs almost twice as much as Plateau. As with many herbicides, care should also be taken when applying Facet to areas where the water table is at or near the surface.
Another option for control is mechanical treatment. Land managers have successfully used weed whips for smaller areas and large tractor mounted mowers to control the plant by keeping it from setting seed. Mechanical treatment is often followed by an herbicide treatment later in the summer or fall.
A third option for control is utilizing biocontrol agents such as the flea beetle. Flea Beetles have been found to be very cost effective in places where the beetles can over winter. Here in the Sheyenne Delta, the soils are often too sandy for the beetles to establish their larvae in the root system to survive during the winter months. Other biocontrol agents include livestock. While Leafy Spurge can be toxic to cattle and horses, these species are best used to remove desirable vegetation prior to chemical application. This helps increase chemical reception of the intended target. Unlike cattle, goats and sheep can graze Leafy Spurge without worry of toxicity and provide effective control by reducing the vigor of the plant and preventing it from setting seed early in the season.
One last tool that may be utilized is prescribed fire. Leafy Spurge responds well to fire, so why would it be a useful tool? At Brown Ranch we use fire to delay the onset of seed, thus extending our pre-seed spraying season. Because leafy spurge responds well to fire, it grows with vigor, which often means it is one of the first plants to emerge and one of the tallest, making it an easy target for chemical application. Because it is actively growing, that chemical is readily adsorbed and translocated to meristematic tissues.
If unmanaged, Leafy Spurge can out compete native vegetation and can become a monoculture (see photos below of managed vs. unmanaged). The good news is, with dedication, good timing and integrated pest management practices you can control Leafy Spurge and have healthy diverse prairies!
Above is prairie managed for Leafy Spurge
Above is unmanaged for leafy spurge
NEWS: Due to Covid 19 crisis we are postponing the GRN workshop of this August to next August, 2021 in Barrington, Illinois.
By Bryon Walters, Illinois Natural Area Improvements
Spring is a great time to go after all those exotic and invasive basal rosettes that like to pop up early.
This mix will be very effective towards a wide array of broadleaf annuals, bi-annuals and perennial species. Some of the suspects I encounter in north central Illinois include these:
Garlic mustard
Garlic mustard 4 hours later
Poison hemlock
Poison hemlock 4 days later
Dames rocket
Wild parsnip
Catnip
Burdock
Cut leaved teasel
So what is the 1-2 Punch? It is one of the safest and most selective herbicide mixes that you can use.
Write this recipe down and save it with your other favorites! It’s very easy to remember.
1% 2,4-D + 2% Triclopyr, (Garlon, Element and other proprietary names), Surfactant and Dye.
I prefer to fill up 15 gallon drums of this mix in my shop and then head out for the day. I rarely, if ever, carry concentrated jugs of herbicides in my truck. I don’t want to be responsible for cleaning up a chemical spill mess involving concentrated chemicals. Fortunately, it has never happened to me.
Don’t forget the Surfactant! It is the most important ingredient in the mix. Surfactants are stickers that help spread out the herbicide and adhere to the waxy leaf surfaces. I can usually tell if a surfactant wasn’t used by an applicator when I see the vegetation that was sprayed. Usually, there are a few symptomatic leaves but the bulk of the plant looks unaffected. So how much Surfactant do you add?
Remember 1-2 Punch, thus ½ % Surfactant.
Here is how much product I use in 15 gallons. 20 ounces 2,4-D, 40 ounces of Triclopyr and 8 ounces of Surfactant. I put a squeeze of blue dye in the drum lastly.
Lastly, it’s important to know the difference between Amine and Ester formulations. You can cause real problems if you are unsure of the differences.
Amine is the WATER based formulation of the concentrated chemical. Amine is the most commonly obtained and used formulation. Garlon 3A, in which the A designates Amine. It has 3 pounds of a.i., active ingredient, in a gallon. This mix will have a distinct smell and lasts for a day, but it is not bothersome. If you are spraying large volumes of this mix I would advise wearing a face mask. This mix is a general broadleaf control and usually does not effect grasses or sedges, although sometimes small sensitive grasses will turn yellow when sprayed. Use Amine in late Spring and continue with it all Summer. Do not use Ester mixes at these times of the year. I will explain shortly.
Ester is the OIL based formulation of the concentrated chemical. Think Garlon 4E, in which E designates Ester. It has 4 pounds of a.i., active ingredient, in a gallon. This 1-2 mix will form a milky solution. This mix has a much stronger smell, which sometimes lasts for two days when a larger volume is sprayed. You may need to put up a sign to notify the public of chemicals in use. This again is a general broadleaf mix but can cause more yellowing of small sensitive new growth grasses or sedges. Use sparingly as you would do with a glyphosate mix. It is often called LV, Low Volatility, but in truth it is very volatile. Volatility is the ability of the chemical to vaporize and drift away from your target plants. Ester should never be used when the temperatures exceed 70 degrees F. It will adversely effect and even kill desirable plants nearby. It has been known to kill an entire Bald faced Hornets nest. That occurred when a 100 gallon tank load was sprayed in an area when the temps were in the mid 70’s.
I use Ester formulations in early Spring and then again in the Fall. The oil base is very effective on plants during these cooler environmental conditions. If you think you will forget that you have Ester formulations in your sprayers and containers, and you don’t use markers to write this down, then please do not even purchase or mix Ester formulations. Besides, Ester 2,4-D is not readily available.
Use Caution and Care when you are using any chemical products. Adjust your nozzle to a narrow spot stream as shown in one of the photos. Although you can spray and kill Multi-flora Rose and Japanese Barberry with this mix, avoid spraying shrubs because this milder solution will not be effective enough for them. The 1-2 Punch is a general broadleaf mix. Remember, in your I.P.M., the use of chemicals are the last resort to controlling vegetation. Be safe out there.
EASY HOMEMADE 1-2 PUNCH
3 gallon Backpack mix = 4 ounces 2,4-D + 8 ounces. TRICLOPYR + 2 ounces Surfactant
15 gallon Drum mix = 20 ounces 2,4-D + 40 ounces TRICLOPYR + 8 ounces Surfactant
25 gallon Tank mix = 32 ounces 2,4-D + 64 ounces TRICLOPYR + 14 ounces Surfactant
NEWS: Due to Covid 19 crisis we are postponing the GRN workshop of this August to next August, 2021 in Barrington, Illinois.
Subtitle: We need to focus on winning the war and not just the battle
By: Julianne Mason, Restoration Program Coordinator, Forest Preserve District of Will County
April 21, 2020
Like all invasive species, reed canary grass is a formidable opponent. It is aggressive, robust, produces tons of seed, spreads rhizomatously, and can form monocultures in many wetland community types. Even during these shelter-at-home days, we have been able to do solo work to treat reed canary grass in high priority areas. Our current work restrictions have highlighted the need to be both strategic and effective in our treatment actions.
Several years ago, I put in some test plots to compare the longer-term effectiveness of treating reed canary grass with glyphosate, a non-selective herbicide, compared to treating it with clethodim, a grass-specific herbicide. I used 2% AquaNeat (glyphosate product) with 0.4% Pen-A-Trate II, which is our normal nonionic surfactant. For the grass-specific herbicide treatments, I used 1.5% Volunteer (clethodim product) with 1.5% Powerhouse, which has ammonium sulfate (AMS) incorporated in the surfactant. Adding AMS, a fertilizer, to the herbicide solution is suggested on the clethodim label. Unfortunately, clethodim is not approved for use over water; there is no aquatic-approved, grass-specific herbicide. The clethodim treatments were made when the treatment areas were fairly dry and no standing water was present. Plots were sprayed in the late fall, early spring, or late spring in 2017 and 2018.
Photo 1 caption: Reed canary grass plants were treated with clethodim or glyphosate herbicide and marked with pin flags which were color coded to the treatment type. In this plot, the clethodim treatment was pretty effective since no flowering reed canary grass heads are visible in the July photo.
Not surprisingly, the reed canary grass that was treated with glyphosate died quickly. However, glyphosate is a non-selective chemical, and there were dead zones resulting from overspray during the treatments. This was especially significant for the late spring treatments. The reed canary grass was big and tall when it was sprayed, resulting in a lot of herbicide spray used and a lot of overspray death.
Photo 2 caption: Reed canary grass that was sprayed with glyphosate died quickly. The quick kill was gratifying, but note the dead zones from the non-selective chemical’s overspray.
The dead zones were less obvious but still present during the late fall treatments, which were made after many other species had gone dormant, and during the early spring treatments, which had less overspray because the plants were treated when still small. The dead zones were mostly colonized by reed canary grass seedlings, which is not surprising. There must be a lot of reed canary grass seed in the seedbank under reed canary grass plants. Within two years, the reed canary grass stand that was treated with glyphosate during the late spring had returned to a robust reed canary grass stand. If you had seen the end result, you would not have believed that the reed canary grass had been sprayed with herbicide and killed just two years prior.
Photo 3 caption: By the second year after treatment, the area treated with glyphosate had returned to a reed canary grass stand.
In contrast, the reed canary grass plants that were treated with clethodim took many weeks to months to turn yellow and senesce. All of them looked sick and none of them flowered, but they didn’t look especially dead after treatment. Even a year or two after treatment, many of them had resprouted weakly and were not fully dead, just severely stunted. However, the other plants in the area that had been previously suppressed by the reed canary grass, like sedges and wetland forbs, were unaffected by the herbicide treatment and had greatly increased in vigor and cover. Two years after the initial herbicide treatment with clethodim, the treated area had recovered the native cover and diversity of a sedge meadow.
Photo 4 caption: In the clethodim treatment plots, reed canary grass was killed or significantly reduced. Sedges and forbs were unaffected by the herbicide treatment and greatly increased in vigor and cover.
Overall, the best results in this study were: 1) treated in the late fall with 2% glyphosate, when the reed canary grass was still slightly green but almost all the other vegetation was dormant, and/or 2) treated with 1.5% clethodim in the fall or early spring, with a follow-up treatment to missed individuals and ones that did not fully die.
Photo 5 caption: Reed canary grass was treated with clethodim herbicide, and a sedge-dominated community remained two years after the treatment.
Although following up with multiple treatments of clethodim may seem like more work, I think it is worthwhile and actually less work in the end because it allows the native sedges and forbs to flourish. In many of our natural areas, and especially immediately under invasive plants, the seed bank may not be our friend. It may have seeds of more invasive plants instead of native species. Creating “holes” in the vegetation with non-selective chemical use can just make space for more invasive plant recruitment, spray and repeat, spray and repeat. To break out of that cycle, an end game is to facilitate renewed dominance of the native matrix, which seems to happen better and more quickly when a grass-specific herbicide is used to treat the reed canary grass.
Photo 6 caption: Comparison of two adjacent plots where the reed canary grass was treated with clethodim and glyphosate herbicide, viewed two years after the treatment.
NEWS: Due to Covid 19 crisis we are postponing the GRN workshop of this August to next August, 2021 in Barrington, Illinois.
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